Remembering Marie Antoinette, Queen of France

Marie Antoinette, Queen of France (2 Nov. 1755–16 Oct. 1793)

On Friday, October 16th, a small group of friends gathered for our annual dinner in memory of Marie Antoinette, Queen of France and Navarre. Ordinarily, I would have organized a larger affair, but recent travels, work, family obligations, and preparations for an upcoming trip to Napoli had occupied much of my attention. As the occasion fell on a Friday, we eschewed meat in favor of an assortment of eggplant dishes, a veritable Sagra della Melanzana. Though modest in scale, the evening was no less meaningful, as guests raised their glasses in tribute to the martyred queen, whose grace, dignity, and courage continue to inspire devotion more than two centuries after her death. Viva ’a Reggina!

Caponata

Melanzane sott'olio

Polpette di milinciani

Pasta alla Norma

The Many Pleasures of Parma

Piazza Duomo, Parma, at dusk, with the medieval Cattedrale
di Santa Maria Assunta and its bell tower on the left, and
the octagonal Battistero di Parma on the right

Previous: Among the Treasures of Mercanteinfiera

My mornings in Parma began quietly, reading Rilke over a caffè and cornetto while indulging in a little people-watching. With the day’s work done and my evenings largely to myself, I wandered the streets, admiring the city’s magnificent architecture, beautiful piazzas, and remarkable churches.

Among the highlights were the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta in Piazza Duomo and the Basilica di Santa Maria della Steccata, the Magistral Church and official seat of the Sacred Military Constantinian Order of Saint George. Both were extraordinary, offering a glimpse of the artistic and religious heritage that makes the old duchy so endlessly fascinating.

The food was no less memorable. At a delightful trattoria to which I returned, I made a point of sampling as many local specialties as possible, including torta fritta, preziosi di Parma, degustazione di formaggi misti, cappelletti al ragù di strolghino, vecchia di cavallo, and sbrisolona con zabaione, accompanied by a Pinot Nero. Elsewhere, I enjoyed erbazzone, spalla cotta e salsa di cipolle caramellate, and a simple panino with prosciutto crudo. Every meal seemed to offer another reason to appreciate the culinary traditions of Emilia-Romagna.

One particularly enjoyable experience took place at a traditional enoteca where I stopped for a Lambrusco. In keeping with an old Emilian tavern tradition, as the waitress explained, the wine was served in a fojeta, a small white ceramic bowl, rather than an ordinary wine glass. I enjoyed the custom so much that, at another wine bar, I confidently ordered a “Lambrusco scodella,” only to be informed that they did not serve it that way. I drank it the same old boring way in a glass, but it was still good.

Between the quiet mornings, evening strolls, magnificent churches, and memorable meals, Parma offered many of the simple pleasures that make a visit to Il Bel Paese so rewarding.

Next: Among the Ladies of Palazzo del Governatore

~ By Giovanni di Napoli, October 14th, Feast of San Callisto I

A pair of medieval marble lions guarding the entrance to the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, supporting the columns of its magnificent Romanesque portal

Two views of Parma’s magnificent Piazza Duomo, featuring the Romanesque Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta and its medieval bell tower (left), and the octagonal Battistero di Parma, a masterpiece of Romanesque and early Gothic architecture (right)

Two picturesque views of Parma, featuring the bell tower of the Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista rising above a cobblestone street (left), and the historic Torre dell’Orologio del convento di San Paolo (right)

Details of Parma’s Torre dell’Orologio, featuring a monumental clock and sculpted figure of Minerva (left), and a memorial to Italy’s fallen soldiers (right), inscribed with a tribute to those who sacrificed their lives for their country

A view of Piazza Garibaldi in Parma, featuring the historic Palazzo del Governatore with its clock tower and the monument to Giuseppe Garibaldi standing prominently in the foreground

Two impressive examples of Parma’s architecture

A view of the nearly dry Torrente Parma at sunset, with colorful residential buildings lining the riverbank, revealing a quieter side of the city

(Left) An evening street scene in Parma, with pedestrians strolling among warmly illuminated shops and historic buildings as dusk settles over the city. (Right) Statue of Santa Lucia, set within an architectural niche

(Left) Monument to Antonio Allegri da Correggio (c. 1489–1534), the celebrated High Renaissance painter. The statue depicts the artist holding a drawing board. (Right) Monument to Francesco Mazzola, better known as Parmigianino (1503–1540), the Parma-born Mannerist painter. The monument features a statue of the artist above an ornate pedestal with decorative reliefs and fountain elements

(Left) Bust of General Carlo Alberto dalla Chiesa (1920–1982), the celebrated Carabinieri officer who fought organized crime and terrorism. Appointed Prefect of Palermo in 1982, he was assassinated by the Sicilian Mafia. (Right) Commemorative plaque honoring the French novelist Stendhal (1783–1842), whose real name was Henri Beyle. The inscription recalls that on this street in Parma, formerly Borgo San Paolo, Stendhal set the first romantic encounter between Fabrizio del Dongo and Clelia Conti in his celebrated novel The Charterhouse of Parma (La Chartreuse de Parme, 1839)

(Left) Bust of Giuseppe Verdi, the celebrated Italian composer (1813–1901), displayed in a warmly lit interior in Parma. (Right) Monumental bronze relief depicting scenes from Verdi’s operas, with dramatic figures, musicians, and theatrical imagery. The composition celebrates the composer’s artistic legacy and his enduring association with Parma

(Left) Monument to the Partisan (Monumento al Partigiano), commemorating the Italian Resistance. (Right) Monument to Vittorio Bottego (Monumento a Vittorio Bottego), the Parma-born explorer. The composition depicts Bottego standing above an allegorical African river figure

Garibaldi’s Landing in Sicily, detail of the Monument to Giuseppe Garibaldi. The bronze relief depicts Garibaldi and his volunteers arriving in Sicily during the Expedition of the Thousand in 1860. The crowded boats, armed figures, and movement toward shore convey the drama of the landing at Marsala, which marked a decisive moment in the campaign for Italian unification

(Left) An afternoon sitting with Rilke’s Poems to Night, reading and people-watching. (Right) Lambrusco served in a traditional scodella

(Left) The basement of a restaurant, with prosciutto and other traditional cured meats hanging from the walls. (Right) Panaché, a refreshing mixture of beer and gassosa (Italian lemon soda)

Preziosi di Parma: A selection of Parma’s finest cured meats, featuring culatello con cotenna, Prosciutto di Parma, coppa, salame Felino, and strolghino, served on a traditional wooden platter

Cappelletti al Ragù di Strolghino

Vecchia di cavallo, a traditional, slow-cooked horse meat stew

Erbazzone, a traditional rustic, double-crust savory pie 

Sbrisolona con Zabaione: A crumbly, traditional
almond cake served with eggnog cream

A Century of Faith: The 100th Feast of San Gennaro

A newly donated relic of San Gennaro, containing a fragment of the saint’s skull, presented by the City of Naples in honor of the 100th Anniversary of the Feast of San Gennaro in Little Italy, New York City

For a century, the beloved Feast of San Gennaro has brought faith, tradition, and devotion to the streets of old Little Italy in New York City.

This year’s centennial celebration was made especially memorable by a newly donated relic of San Gennaro from the City of Naples, a beautifully restored painting of the saint originally from Naples, and a newly designed prayer card commemorating the 100th anniversary.

The procession through the throng gathered on Mulberry Street offered a stirring reminder of the enduring ties between Naples and New York’s Neapolitan American community.

Viva San Gennaro!

The processional bust of San Gennaro outside the Shrine Church of Most Precious Blood, with the relic and Constantinian Cross bestowed by H.R.H. Prince Carlo di Borbone, Duke of Castro

H.E. Gr. Uff. John Viola with the antique painting of San Gennaro from Naples that he rescued and had restored

Msgr. Jamie Gigantiello blessing the restored painting during Mass

The Mass was concelebrated by Msgr. Donald Sakano,
Msgr. Jamie Gigantiello, and Fr. Leo Camurati

Members of the Sacred Military Constantinian Order
of St. George participating in the Mass

Knights and Dames of the Sacred Military Constantinian Order
of St. George process out of the church following Mass

The statue of San Gennaro carried in procession through the throng

Fr. Leo among the crowd on Mulberry Street

Don Raimondo del Balzo dei Duchi di Presenzano
spotted in the crowd on Mulberry Street

Our friend Tony Mangia was among the revelers 

Msgr. Jamie Gigantiello leads the procession through the streets of Little Italy

The new outdoor shrine to San Gennaro on Mulberry Street

A delicious fil-a-bun burger

Zeppole

After the procession, we made our way to Vincent’s, a Little Italy institution since 1904, for a well-earned meal and the perfect way to continue celebrating the 100th Anniversary of the Feast of San Gennaro. Good food, good company, and a century of tradition on Mulberry Street.

Vincent’s, founded in 1904 and the oldest restaurant in Little Italy, marks two historic milestones with a new T-shirt celebrating the 250th anniversary of these United States and the 100th Anniversary of the Feast of San Gennaro

Fried shrimp

Baked clams

Calamari

Lasagna

(L) A surprise gift, a Mighty Warriors challenge coin. (R) The newly designed prayer card commemorating the 100th Anniversary of the Feast of San Gennaro

Celebrating Santa Rosalia in Bensonhurst

Santa Rosalia, ora pro nobis

Tuesday evening, we joined the crowds in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn, for the 52nd Feast of Santa Rosalia, the beloved patroness of Palermo. Our first stop was the shrine dedicated to la Santuzza, located on 18th Avenue between 71st and 72nd Streets, where we offered prayers and made a donation before setting out to enjoy some of the Palermitana-style street fare that remains one of the great attractions of the feast.

We indulged in arancini, stigghiola, sfincione, baked iris, zeppole, and gelato (zuppa inglese), a veritable taste of Palermo in the heart of Brooklyn. With beautiful weather, the feast was alive with the sights, aromas, and flavors of Sicily, offering another welcome opportunity to celebrate Santa Rosalia and the traditions carried from Palermo to Brooklyn generations ago. Evviva Santa Rosalia!

~ By Giovanni di Napoli, August 25th, Feast of Santa Patrizia di Costantinopoli

The outdoor chapel on 18th Avenue, between 71st St. and 72nd St

Arancini

Sfincione

Stigghiola

Zeppole

Iris

Zuppa inglese