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| Piazza Duomo, Parma, at dusk, with the medieval Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta and its bell tower on the left, and the octagonal Battistero di Parma on the right |
My mornings in Parma began quietly, reading Rilke over a caffè and cornetto while indulging in a little people-watching. With the day’s work done and my evenings largely to myself, I wandered the streets, admiring the city’s magnificent architecture, beautiful piazzas, and remarkable churches.
Among the highlights were the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta in Piazza Duomo and the Basilica di Santa Maria della Steccata, the Magistral Church and official seat of the Sacred Military Constantinian Order of Saint George. Both were extraordinary, offering a glimpse of the artistic and religious heritage that makes the old duchy so endlessly fascinating.
The food was no less memorable. At a delightful trattoria to which I returned, I made a point of sampling as many local specialties as possible, including torta fritta, preziosi di Parma, degustazione di formaggi misti, cappelletti al ragù di strolghino, vecchia di cavallo, and sbrisolona con zabaione, accompanied by a Pinot Nero. Elsewhere, I enjoyed erbazzone, spalla cotta e salsa di cipolle caramellate, and a simple panino with prosciutto crudo. Every meal seemed to offer another reason to appreciate the culinary traditions of Emilia-Romagna.
One particularly enjoyable experience took place at a traditional enoteca where I stopped for a Lambrusco. In keeping with an old Emilian tavern tradition, as the waitress explained, the wine was served in a fojeta, a small white ceramic bowl, rather than an ordinary wine glass. I enjoyed the custom so much that, at another wine bar, I confidently ordered a “Lambrusco scodella,” only to be informed that they did not serve it that way. I drank it the same old boring way in a glass, but it was still good.
Between the quiet mornings, evening strolls, magnificent churches, and memorable meals, Parma offered many of the simple pleasures that make a visit to Il Bel Paese so rewarding.
Next: Among the Ladies of Palazzo del Governatore
~ By Giovanni di Napoli, October 14th, Feast of San Callisto I
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| A pair of medieval marble lions guarding the entrance to the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, supporting the columns of its magnificent Romanesque portal |
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| Two views of Parma’s magnificent Piazza Duomo, featuring the Romanesque Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta and its medieval bell tower (left), and the octagonal Battistero di Parma, a masterpiece of Romanesque and early Gothic architecture (right) |
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| Two picturesque views of Parma, featuring the bell tower of the Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista rising above a cobblestone street (left), and the historic Torre dell’Orologio del convento di San Paolo (right) |
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| Details of Parma’s Torre dell’Orologio, featuring a monumental clock and sculpted figure of Minerva (left), and a memorial to Italy’s fallen soldiers (right), inscribed with a tribute to those who sacrificed their lives for their country |
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| A view of Piazza Garibaldi in Parma, featuring the historic Palazzo del Governatore with its clock tower and the monument to Giuseppe Garibaldi standing prominently in the foreground |
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Two impressive examples of Parma’s architecture |
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| A view of the nearly dry Torrente Parma at sunset, with colorful residential buildings lining the riverbank, revealing a quieter side of the city |
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| (Left) An evening street scene in Parma, with pedestrians strolling among warmly illuminated shops and historic buildings as dusk settles over the city. (Right) Statue of Santa Lucia, set within an architectural niche |
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| (Left) Monument to Antonio Allegri da Correggio (c. 1489–1534), the celebrated High Renaissance painter. The statue depicts the artist holding a drawing board. (Right) Monument to Francesco Mazzola, better known as Parmigianino (1503–1540), the Parma-born Mannerist painter. The monument features a statue of the artist above an ornate pedestal with decorative reliefs and fountain elements |
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| (Left) Bust of General Carlo Alberto dalla Chiesa (1920–1982), the celebrated Carabinieri officer who fought organized crime and terrorism. Appointed Prefect of Palermo in 1982, he was assassinated by the Sicilian Mafia. (Right) Commemorative plaque honoring the French novelist Stendhal (1783–1842), whose real name was Henri Beyle. The inscription recalls that on this street in Parma, formerly Borgo San Paolo, Stendhal set the first romantic encounter between Fabrizio del Dongo and Clelia Conti in his celebrated novel The Charterhouse of Parma (La Chartreuse de Parme, 1839) |
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| (Left) Bust of Giuseppe Verdi, the celebrated Italian composer (1813–1901), displayed in a warmly lit interior in Parma. (Right) Monumental bronze relief depicting scenes from Verdi’s operas, with dramatic figures, musicians, and theatrical imagery. The composition celebrates the composer’s artistic legacy and his enduring association with Parma |
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| (Left) Monument to the Partisan (Monumento al Partigiano), commemorating the Italian Resistance. (Right) Monument to Vittorio Bottego (Monumento a Vittorio Bottego), the Parma-born explorer. The composition depicts Bottego standing above an allegorical African river figure |
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| Garibaldi’s Landing in Sicily, detail of the Monument to Giuseppe Garibaldi. The bronze relief depicts Garibaldi and his volunteers arriving in Sicily during the Expedition of the Thousand in 1860. The crowded boats, armed figures, and movement toward shore convey the drama of the landing at Marsala, which marked a decisive moment in the campaign for Italian unification |
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| (Left) An afternoon sitting with Rilke’s Poems to Night, reading and people-watching. (Right) Lambrusco served in a traditional scodella |
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| (Left) The basement of a restaurant, with prosciutto and other traditional cured meats hanging from the walls. (Right) Panaché, a refreshing mixture of beer and gassosa (Italian lemon soda) |
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| Preziosi di Parma: A selection of Parma’s finest cured meats, featuring culatello con cotenna, Prosciutto di Parma, coppa, salame Felino, and strolghino, served on a traditional wooden platter |
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| Cappelletti al Ragù di Strolghino |
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| Vecchia di cavallo, a traditional, slow-cooked horse meat stew |
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| Erbazzone, a traditional rustic, double-crust savory pie |
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| Sbrisolona con Zabaione: A crumbly, traditional almond cake served with eggnog cream |
