October 17, 2026

An Old Fascination, a New Discovery

Galatea, 1925, bronze, Amleto Cataldi (1882-1930), during the exhibition GAM 100: Un secolo di Galleria comunale 1925-2025
Previous: Among the Ladies of Palazzo del Governatore

With only a few hours to explore the Eternal City before a dinner date at Locanda Bucarelli on Via di San Giovanni in Laterano, I decided to visit the Galleria d’Arte Moderna to see Amleto Cataldi’s Galatea–Fontana.

I cannot quite explain why, but the sculpture has haunted my memory ever since I first encountered it sixteen years ago. All that time, I had longed to gaze upon her beauty again, and I was determined not to miss the opportunity.

To my great delight, I did not have to search for her. She was the first work of art I encountered upon entering the gallery, and every bit as beautiful as I remembered. I could have left then and considered the visit worthwhile, but I continued exploring and discovered much more.

Highlights included Ettore Tito’s Il Verno, Auguste Rodin’s Busto di Signora, Giuseppe De Nittis’s Paesaggio invernale, and Vincenzo Gemito's terracotta portrait of his wife, Anna. I was equally taken with Ettore Ximenes' Principessa Laetitia, Onorato Carlandi’s Agitazione, and Amedeo Bocchi’s Nel Parco.

Another unexpected encounter proved particularly memorable. Much as Cataldi’s Galatea had captivated me sixteen years earlier, I found myself inexplicably drawn to Giacomo Balla’s Ritratto di Annina Levi della Vida. I cannot say precisely what it was about her that held my attention, but perhaps that is part of the mystery of art. Some works we admire; others stay with us for reasons we cannot entirely explain.

I had come to renew an old fascination and left with a new one.


Next: The Splendor of Santa Maria della Steccata

~ By Giovanni di Napoli, October 16th, Feasts of San Gerardo Maiella and Sant’Irene di Tessalonica
Two full-length views of Amleto Cataldi’s Galatea (1925), revealing the sculpture’s graceful pose, elongated proportions, and smooth, stylized forms
Two views of Amleto Cataldi’s Galatea (1925). The stylized, French-inspired hairstyle, reflecting Secessionist rather than classical influences, reinforces the sculpture’s striking solidity and monumentality
Two views of Vincenzo Gemito’s Ritratto di Anna Gemito (Portrait of Anna Gemito), 1886, terracotta. The delicate modeling of her face contrasts beautifully with the rough, expressive treatment of her hair and clothing
Giuseppe De Nittis, Paesaggio invernale (Winter Landscape), 1867–1874. A bleak, atmospheric winter scene, with solitary figures crossing a rain-soaked landscape beneath a brooding sky
Two views of Auguste Rodin’s Busto di signora (Bust of a Lady), 1907–1912, bronze. The sculpture combines the delicate modeling of the woman’s face with the expressive, textured folds of her clothing
Ettore Tito, Il vento (The Wind), 1895–1909, oil on plywood. A delicate portrait of a young woman, her windswept hair and softly modeled features captured in expressive brushstrokes
(Left) Antonio Muñoz’s 1931 catalogue of the Galleria Mussolini d’Arte Moderna Italiana, formerly located on Rome’s Capitoline Hill. (Right) Maria Immacolata Zaffuto, Cantiere con figure (Building Site with Figures), 1925–1940
(Left) Enrico Lionne, Violette, 1913, oil on canvas. (Right) Giacomo Balla, Ritratto di Annina Levi della Vida (Portrait of Annina Levi della Vida), 1930–1940, oil on canvas. I found myself completely enthralled by this portrait. There is something captivating about her quiet expression, direct gaze, and understated beauty that makes it difficult to look away and even harder to forget
Amedeo Bocchi, Nel parco (In the Park), 1919, oil on canvas. A striking portrait of an elegantly dressed woman seated in a garden, her vivid yellow blouse and dark hat contrasting beautifully with the lush green surroundings

Onorato Carlandi, Agitazione (Turmoil), c. 1916, oil on canvas. A dramatic landscape dominated by turbulent storm clouds, with shafts of light breaking through the darkness above a desolate plain

Tommaso Bertolino, Languore (Languor), 1939, bronze. A sensuous reclining female figure, her elongated body and languid pose conveying an atmosphere of quiet intimacy and repose
(Left) Giovanni Prini, Gli amanti (The Lovers), 1909, marble. Two figures locked in an intimate embrace emerge from a roughly hewn block of stone. (Right) Girolamo Masini, Cleopatra, 1882, marble. The Egyptian queen reclines beside a sphinx, her elaborate headdress and flowing garments rendered in exquisite detail
Three sculptures by Ettore Ximenes (1855–1926). (Left) Principessa Laetitia (Princess Letizia), 1890–1910, patinated plaster and bronze. An elegant bust depicting the princess in a contemplative pose. (Center) Americana con cappello (American Woman with a Hat), 1909–1920. A fashionable woman in an elaborate hat and flowing gown. (Right) Ritratto di signora (Portrait of a Lady), 1900–1906, bronze. A poised female figure standing confidently with one hand on her hip
(Left) Attilio Torresini, Afrodite (Aphrodite), 1930–1934, bronze. A graceful female nude, her raised arms and elegantly modeled figure recalling classical ideals of beauty. (Right) Ada Salvadori, Madonna, c. 1955, terracotta. A solemn, stylized depiction of the Virgin Mary, her bowed head and downcast eyes conveying quiet devotion and contemplation
Two views of Attilio Torresini’s Bagnante (Bather), 1934–1936, bronze. A graceful seated female nude, her folded limbs, gently bowed head, and contemplative expression conveying a sense of quiet intimacy and repose

125th Feast of San Vincenzo Martire at the Shrine Church of the Precious Blood in Little Italy, New York

October 16, 2026

Among the Ladies of Palazzo del Governatore

Ritratto della marchesa Casati, ca. 1912, oil on canvas, Giovanni Boldini
Previous: The Many Pleasures of Parma

O
n my last day in Parma, I found myself with some time to spare and decided to visit the newly opened exhibition Lei: Ritratti di donne da Van Gogh a Modigliani e oltre (She: Portraits of Women, from Van Gogh to Modigliani and Beyond) at the Palazzo del Governatore.

Small but impressive, the exhibition offered me the opportunity to see, for the first time in person, works by several of my favorite artists. Highlights included Giuseppe De Nittis’ La piccola inglese, Antonio Mancini’s Carminella, Domenico Morelli’s Ritratto di Teresa Maglione Oneto, and Giovanni Boldini’s magnificent Ritratto della marchesa Casati, depicting the extraordinary Marchesa Luisa Casati adorned with peacock feathers.

As for Van Gogh, Modigliani, Klimt, and the rest, they may have been the exhibition’s principal attractions, but they were certainly not mine.

Next: An Old Fascination, a New Discovery

~ By Giovanni di Napoli, October 15th, Feast of Santa Teresa de Ávila
Dramatically illuminated against darkened walls, portraits of
Carminella (1870) by Antonio Mancini and Maria D'Annunzio,
Duchess of Gallese
(1891) by Giulio Aristide Sartorio
A view of the exhibition Lei: Ritratti di donne da Van Gogh a Modigliani e oltre, featuring portraits of women, marble sculptures, and an intimate gallery setting.
(L) Carminella, 1870, oil on canvas, Antonio Mancini. (R) Ritratto di Teresa Maglione Oneto, 1879, oil on canvas, Domenico Morelli
(Left) La signora dal collaretto (Ritratto di Hanka Zborowska), 1917, oil on canvas, Amedeo Modigliani. (Right) La piccola inglese (The Little English Girl), c. 1879–1880, oil on panel, Giuseppe De Nittis 
Bagnante (The Bather), 1844, oil on panel, Francesco Hayez
A visitor contemplating Boldini's Ritratto della marchesa Casati

Remembering Marie Antoinette, Queen of France

Marie Antoinette in a Park, ca. 1780-81, by Elizabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun
In memory of Marie Antoinette (2 November, 1755 – 16 October, 1793), Queen of France, executed during the French Revolution's Reign of Terror, we pray for the happy repose of her soul. Viva ‘a Reggina!

Eternal rest grant unto her, O Lord, and let perpetual light shine upon her. May her soul, and the souls of all the faithful departed, through the mercy of God, rest in peace. Amen.

Caravaggio: Mary Magdalene in Ecstasy at the Italian Cultural Institute of New York

Istituto Italiano di Cultura di New York

Mass and Reception in Honor of Blessed Karl of Austria at St. John the Beloved Church in McLean, Virginia

October 15, 2026

Farewell to a Master of Sword and Sorcery: Sanjulián

24 June 1941 – 14 October 2026

The passing of legendary Spanish fantasy artist Manuel Pérez Clemente, better known as Sanjulián, marks the loss of another giant from the golden age of fantasy illustration.

As a lifelong sword-and-sorcery and fantasy nerd, I have always loved his work. Alongside Frank Frazetta, John and Sal Buscema, Frank Thorne, Richard Corben, Tony DeZuniga, and so many other greats, Sanjulián helped shape my imagination and my love of the genre. His paintings conjured a world of brooding warriors, beautiful women, and dark places.

Pictured here is my copy of Sword’s Edge, a magnificent collection of paintings inspired by the works of Robert E. Howard, and a treasured part of my library.

Another master has passed into legend, but the worlds he created will endure.

Rest in peace, Sanjulián.

~ By Giovanni di Napoli

The Many Pleasures of Parma

Piazza Duomo, Parma, at dusk, with the medieval Cattedrale
di Santa Maria Assunta and its bell tower on the left, and
the octagonal Battistero di Parma on the right
Previous: Among the Treasures of Mercanteinfiera

My
 mornings in Parma began quietly, reading Rilke over a caffè and cornetto while indulging in a little people-watching. With the day’s work done and my evenings largely to myself, I wandered the streets, admiring the city’s magnificent architecture, beautiful piazzas, and remarkable churches.

Among the highlights were the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta in Piazza Duomo and the Basilica di Santa Maria della Steccata, the Magistral Church and official seat of the Sacred Military Constantinian Order of Saint George. Both were extraordinary, offering a glimpse of the artistic and religious heritage that makes the old duchy so endlessly fascinating.

The food was no less memorable. At a delightful trattoria to which I returned, I made a point of sampling as many local specialties as possible, including torta fritta, preziosi di Parma, degustazione di formaggi misti, cappelletti al ragù di strolghino, vecchia di cavallo, and sbrisolona con zabaione, accompanied by a Pinot Nero. Elsewhere, I enjoyed erbazzone, spalla cotta e salsa di cipolle caramellate, and a simple panino with prosciutto crudo. Every meal seemed to offer another reason to appreciate the culinary traditions of Emilia-Romagna.

One particularly enjoyable experience took place at a traditional enoteca where I stopped for a Lambrusco. In keeping with an old Emilian tavern tradition, as the waitress explained, the wine was served in a fojeta, a small white ceramic bowl, rather than an ordinary wine glass. I enjoyed the custom so much that, at another wine bar, I confidently ordered a “Lambrusco scodella,” only to be informed that they did not serve it that way. I drank it the same old boring way in a glass, but it was still good.

Between the quiet mornings, evening strolls, magnificent churches, and memorable meals, Parma offered many of the simple pleasures that make a visit to Il Bel Paese so rewarding.


N
ext: Among the Ladies of Palazzo del Governatore

~ By Giovanni di Napoli, October 14th, Feast of San Callisto I
A pair of medieval marble lions guarding the entrance to the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, supporting the columns of its magnificent Romanesque portal
Two views of Parma’s magnificent Piazza Duomo, featuring the Romanesque Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta and its medieval bell tower (left), and the octagonal Battistero di Parma, a masterpiece of Romanesque and early Gothic architecture (right)
Two picturesque views of Parma, featuring the bell tower of the Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista rising above a cobblestone street (left), and the historic Torre dell’Orologio del convento di San Paolo (right)
Details of Parma’s Torre dell’Orologio, featuring a monumental clock and sculpted figure of Minerva (left), and a memorial to Italy’s fallen soldiers (right), inscribed with a tribute to those who sacrificed their lives for their country
A view of Piazza Garibaldi in Parma, featuring the historic Palazzo del Governatore with its clock tower and the monument to Giuseppe Garibaldi standing prominently in the foreground

Two impressive examples of Parma’s architecture

A view of the nearly dry Torrente Parma at sunset, with colorful residential buildings lining the riverbank, revealing a quieter side of the city
(Left) An evening street scene in Parma, with pedestrians strolling among warmly illuminated shops and historic buildings as dusk settles over the city. (Right) Statue of Santa Lucia, set within an architectural niche
(Left) Monument to Antonio Allegri da Correggio (c. 1489–1534), the celebrated High Renaissance painter. The statue depicts the artist holding a drawing board. (Right) Monument to Francesco Mazzola, better known as Parmigianino (1503–1540), the Parma-born Mannerist painter. The monument features a statue of the artist above an ornate pedestal with decorative reliefs and fountain elements
(Left) Bust of General Carlo Alberto dalla Chiesa (1920–1982), the celebrated Carabinieri officer who fought organized crime and terrorism. Appointed Prefect of Palermo in 1982, he was assassinated by the Sicilian Mafia. (Right) Commemorative plaque honoring the French novelist Stendhal (1783–1842), whose real name was Henri Beyle. The inscription recalls that on this street in Parma, formerly Borgo San Paolo, Stendhal set the first romantic encounter between Fabrizio del Dongo and Clelia Conti in his celebrated novel The Charterhouse of Parma (La Chartreuse de Parme, 1839)
(Left) Bust of Giuseppe Verdi, the celebrated Italian composer (1813–1901), displayed in a warmly lit interior in Parma. (Right) Monumental bronze relief depicting scenes from Verdi’s operas, with dramatic figures, musicians, and theatrical imagery. The composition celebrates the composer’s artistic legacy and his enduring association with Parma
(Left) Monument to the Partisan (Monumento al Partigiano), commemorating the Italian Resistance. (Right) Monument to Vittorio Bottego (Monumento a Vittorio Bottego), the Parma-born explorer. The composition depicts Bottego standing above an allegorical African river figure
Garibaldi’s Landing in Sicily, detail of the Monument to Giuseppe Garibaldi. The bronze relief depicts Garibaldi and his volunteers arriving in Sicily during the Expedition of the Thousand in 1860. The crowded boats, armed figures, and movement toward shore convey the drama of the landing at Marsala, which marked a decisive moment in the campaign for Italian unification
(Left) An afternoon sitting with Rilke’s Poems to Night, reading and people-watching. (Right) Lambrusco served in a traditional scodella
(Left) The basement of a restaurant, with prosciutto and other traditional cured meats hanging from the walls. (Right) Panaché, a refreshing mixture of beer and gassosa (Italian lemon soda)
Preziosi di Parma: A selection of Parma’s finest cured meats, featuring culatello con cotenna, Prosciutto di Parma, coppa, salame Felino, and strolghino, served on a traditional wooden platter
Cappelletti al Ragù di Strolghino
Vecchia di cavallo, a traditional, slow-cooked horse meat stew
Erbazzone, a traditional rustic, double-crust savory pie 
Sbrisolona con Zabaione: A crumbly, traditional
almond cake served with eggnog cream

“Mi chiamo Antonio e ho un sogno”: teatro e memoria al Ponte Real Ferdinando sul Garigliano