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Midnight Mass at the Shrine Church
of the Holy Innocents in New York City |
Glória in excélsis Deo et in terra pax homínibus bonæ voluntátis
Like many Duosiciliano Americans, my family still keeps the tradition of La Vigilia di Natale, the Southern Italian ritual of eating seafood and eschewing meat on Christmas Eve. We don’t do the so-called Festa dei sette pesci (Feast of the Seven Fishes); there is no sacred arithmetic at our table, but we do eat a variety of aquatic delicacies.
Despite modern claims to authenticity, I believe the “Seven Fish” custom is a relatively recent fabrication. According to my family’s matriarchs, there was never a set number of fish dishes served; we simply ate what we could afford and what was fresh and available.
In recent years, our table has featured shrimp, calamari, clams, mussels, and scungilli (whelk), which all can be prepared in a variety of ways. Once the unquestioned centerpiece, Capitone fritto alla napoletana (fried eel) has gradually given way, after the passing of my grandparents, to sea urchin, lobster, cuttlefish, or baccalà. Lately, we’ve been enjoying baccalà in umido (stewed codfish), and mini lobster tails have become staples.
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| Insalata di mare |
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| Fritto misto di mare |
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| Gamberi fritti |
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| Spaghetti alle vongole |
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| Baccalà in umido with tomato, onion and olives |
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| Mini lobster tails |
After the procession of fish came meatless panzerotti: crisp, crescent-shaped pockets filled with onions and capers; sweetened ricotta; and the familiar pairing of mozzarella and tomato. Then fruit, roasted chestnuts, cafè, and sweets—assorted pastries and cartellate—closed the meal. |
| Panzerotti |
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| Assorted pastries |
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| Homemade cream puffs |
The evening continued with tombola for the children, followed by Solemn High Midnight Latin Mass at the Shrine and Parish Church of the Holy Innocents in New York City. Some of us remained through the Low Mass at dawn, in honor of Saint Anastasia di Sirmio.Christmas morning began with the Traditional Latin Mass at Our Lady of Peace Church in Brooklyn, New York, after which the faithful venerated the Christ Child.  |
| Traditional Latin Christmas Mass at Our Lady of Peace Church |
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| The Nativity at Our Lady of Peace Church |
At home, gifts were exchanged, breakfast kept modest, and—braving the cold—the day was spent visiting family and neighbors until dinnertime.
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| Family and friends gifted me assorted wines from Southern Italy |
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| Santa gave me an eclectic array of books (and mosstaccioli) this year: (L-R) The Letters of Salvator Rosa, Volumes I & II by Alexandra Hoare; For the Whole of Christ: The Collected Works of Dr. John Rao, Volume 3; Intellectual Life at the Court of Frederick II Hohenstaufen; and The Broken Ring: A History and Theory of the Symbol by Jean Borella. |
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My philately buddy surprised me with stamps
honoring Juan Vásquez de Mella from Spain |
No less extravagant than the Eve, Christmas dinner was a culinary tour de force with plenty of hot and cold antipasti, insalata, stuffed shells, and steak. Fruit, dessert, and cafè completed the meal. |
| Christmas dinner is served |
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| Prosciutto e melone |
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| Burrate |
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| Homemade Melanzane grigliate sott'olio |
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| Crocchè di patate, polpette di ricotta, and arancini |
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| Homemade roasted peppers |
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| Lard bread and homemade focaccia Pugliese |
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| Charcuterie board |
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| Stuffed shells |
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| Steak with sweet potato and pomegranate salad with goat cheese |
Not quite finished yet, on December 26th, the second day of Christmas, we celebrate St. Stephen's Day—my saintly Confirmation namesake—with leftovers and homemade torrone, a sticky candy made from honey and nuts that dates back to Roman times. I like mine with a glass of Strega or Amaro. |
| Homemade Cartellate with fig syrup |
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| Homemade torrone |
As always, the ladies outdid themselves. Another Christmas, richly given and gratefully received. Buon Natale a tutti.~ Giovanni di Napoli, December 26th, Feast of Santo Stefano primo Martire (Amended for 2025)
