Among the Ladies of Palazzo del Governatore

Ritratto della marchesa Casati, ca. 1912, oil on canvas, Giovanni Boldini

Previous: The Many Pleasures of Parma

On my last day in Parma, I found myself with some time to spare and decided to visit the newly opened exhibition Lei: Ritratti di donne da Van Gogh a Modigliani e oltre (She: Portraits of Women, from Van Gogh to Modigliani and Beyond) at the Palazzo del Governatore.

Small but impressive, the exhibition offered me the opportunity to see, for the first time in person, works by several of my favorite artists. Highlights included Giuseppe De Nittis’ La piccola inglese, Antonio Mancini’s Carminella, Domenico Morelli’s Ritratto di Teresa Maglione Oneto, and Giovanni Boldini’s magnificent Ritratto della marchesa Casati, depicting the extraordinary Marchesa Luisa Casati adorned with peacock feathers.

As for Van Gogh, Modigliani, Klimt, and the rest, they may have been the exhibition’s principal attractions, but they were certainly not mine.

Next: An Old Fascination, a New Discovery

~ By Giovanni di Napoli, October 15th, Feast of Santa Teresa de Ávila

Dramatically illuminated against darkened walls, portraits of
Carminella (1870) by Antonio Mancini and Maria D'Annunzio,
Duchess of Gallese (1891) by Giulio Aristide Sartorio

A view of the exhibition Lei: Ritratti di donne da Van Gogh a Modigliani e oltre, featuring portraits of women, marble sculptures, and an intimate gallery setting.

(L) Carminella, 1870, oil on canvas, Antonio Mancini. (R) Ritratto di Teresa Maglione Oneto, 1879, oil on canvas, Domenico Morelli

(Left) La signora dal collaretto (Ritratto di Hanka Zborowska), 1917, oil on canvas, Amedeo Modigliani. (Right) La piccola inglese (The Little English Girl), c. 1879–1880, oil on panel, Giuseppe De Nittis 

Bagnante (The Bather), 1844, oil on panel, Francesco Hayez

A visitor contemplating Boldini's Ritratto della marchesa Casati

Remembering Marie Antoinette, Queen of France

Marie Antoinette in a Park, ca. 1780-81, by Elizabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun

In memory of Marie Antoinette (2 November, 1755 – 16 October, 1793), Queen of France, executed during the French Revolution's Reign of Terror, we pray for the happy repose of her soul. Viva ‘a Reggina!

Eternal rest grant unto her, O Lord, and let perpetual light shine upon her. May her soul, and the souls of all the faithful departed, through the mercy of God, rest in peace. Amen.

Caravaggio: Mary Magdalene in Ecstasy at the Italian Cultural Institute of New York

Istituto Italiano di Cultura di New York

Mass and Reception in Honor of Blessed Karl of Austria at St. John the Beloved Church in McLean, Virginia

Farewell to a Master of Sword and Sorcery: Sanjulián

24 June 1941 – 14 October 2026

The passing of legendary Spanish fantasy artist Manuel Pérez Clemente, better known as Sanjulián, marks the loss of another giant from the golden age of fantasy illustration.

As a lifelong sword-and-sorcery and fantasy nerd, I have always loved his work. Alongside Frank Frazetta, John and Sal Buscema, Frank Thorne, Richard Corben, Tony DeZuniga, and so many other greats, Sanjulián helped shape my imagination and my love of the genre. His paintings conjured a world of brooding warriors, beautiful women, and dark places.

Pictured here is my copy of Sword’s Edge, a magnificent collection of paintings inspired by the works of Robert E. Howard, and a treasured part of my library.

Another master has passed into legend, but the worlds he created will endure.

Rest in peace, Sanjulián.

~ By Giovanni di Napoli

The Many Pleasures of Parma

Piazza Duomo, Parma, at dusk, with the medieval Cattedrale
di Santa Maria Assunta and its bell tower on the left, and
the octagonal Battistero di Parma on the right

Previous: Among the Treasures of Mercanteinfiera

My mornings in Parma began quietly, reading Rilke over a caffè and cornetto while indulging in a little people-watching. With the day’s work done and my evenings largely to myself, I wandered the streets, admiring the city’s magnificent architecture, beautiful piazzas, and remarkable churches.

Among the highlights were the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta in Piazza Duomo and the Basilica di Santa Maria della Steccata, the Magistral Church and official seat of the Sacred Military Constantinian Order of Saint George. Both were extraordinary, offering a glimpse of the artistic and religious heritage that makes the old duchy so endlessly fascinating.

The food was no less memorable. At a delightful trattoria to which I returned, I made a point of sampling as many local specialties as possible, including torta fritta, preziosi di Parma, degustazione di formaggi misti, cappelletti al ragù di strolghino, vecchia di cavallo, and sbrisolona con zabaione, accompanied by a Pinot Nero. Elsewhere, I enjoyed erbazzone, spalla cotta e salsa di cipolle caramellate, and a simple panino with prosciutto crudo. Every meal seemed to offer another reason to appreciate the culinary traditions of Emilia-Romagna.

One particularly enjoyable experience took place at a traditional enoteca where I stopped for a Lambrusco. In keeping with an old Emilian tavern tradition, as the waitress explained, the wine was served in a fojeta, a small white ceramic bowl, rather than an ordinary wine glass. I enjoyed the custom so much that, at another wine bar, I confidently ordered a “Lambrusco scodella,” only to be informed that they did not serve it that way. I drank it the same old boring way in a glass, but it was still good.

Between the quiet mornings, evening strolls, magnificent churches, and memorable meals, Parma offered many of the simple pleasures that make a visit to Il Bel Paese so rewarding.

Next: Among the Ladies of Palazzo del Governatore

~ By Giovanni di Napoli, October 14th, Feast of San Callisto I

A pair of medieval marble lions guarding the entrance to the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, supporting the columns of its magnificent Romanesque portal

Two views of Parma’s magnificent Piazza Duomo, featuring the Romanesque Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta and its medieval bell tower (left), and the octagonal Battistero di Parma, a masterpiece of Romanesque and early Gothic architecture (right)

Two picturesque views of Parma, featuring the bell tower of the Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista rising above a cobblestone street (left), and the historic Torre dell’Orologio del convento di San Paolo (right)

Details of Parma’s Torre dell’Orologio, featuring a monumental clock and sculpted figure of Minerva (left), and a memorial to Italy’s fallen soldiers (right), inscribed with a tribute to those who sacrificed their lives for their country

A view of Piazza Garibaldi in Parma, featuring the historic Palazzo del Governatore with its clock tower and the monument to Giuseppe Garibaldi standing prominently in the foreground

Two impressive examples of Parma’s architecture

A view of the nearly dry Torrente Parma at sunset, with colorful residential buildings lining the riverbank, revealing a quieter side of the city

(Left) An evening street scene in Parma, with pedestrians strolling among warmly illuminated shops and historic buildings as dusk settles over the city. (Right) Statue of Santa Lucia, set within an architectural niche

(Left) Monument to Antonio Allegri da Correggio (c. 1489–1534), the celebrated High Renaissance painter. The statue depicts the artist holding a drawing board. (Right) Monument to Francesco Mazzola, better known as Parmigianino (1503–1540), the Parma-born Mannerist painter. The monument features a statue of the artist above an ornate pedestal with decorative reliefs and fountain elements

(Left) Bust of General Carlo Alberto dalla Chiesa (1920–1982), the celebrated Carabinieri officer who fought organized crime and terrorism. Appointed Prefect of Palermo in 1982, he was assassinated by the Sicilian Mafia. (Right) Commemorative plaque honoring the French novelist Stendhal (1783–1842), whose real name was Henri Beyle. The inscription recalls that on this street in Parma, formerly Borgo San Paolo, Stendhal set the first romantic encounter between Fabrizio del Dongo and Clelia Conti in his celebrated novel The Charterhouse of Parma (La Chartreuse de Parme, 1839)

(Left) Bust of Giuseppe Verdi, the celebrated Italian composer (1813–1901), displayed in a warmly lit interior in Parma. (Right) Monumental bronze relief depicting scenes from Verdi’s operas, with dramatic figures, musicians, and theatrical imagery. The composition celebrates the composer’s artistic legacy and his enduring association with Parma

(Left) Monument to the Partisan (Monumento al Partigiano), commemorating the Italian Resistance. (Right) Monument to Vittorio Bottego (Monumento a Vittorio Bottego), the Parma-born explorer. The composition depicts Bottego standing above an allegorical African river figure

Garibaldi’s Landing in Sicily, detail of the Monument to Giuseppe Garibaldi. The bronze relief depicts Garibaldi and his volunteers arriving in Sicily during the Expedition of the Thousand in 1860. The crowded boats, armed figures, and movement toward shore convey the drama of the landing at Marsala, which marked a decisive moment in the campaign for Italian unification

(Left) An afternoon sitting with Rilke’s Poems to Night, reading and people-watching. (Right) Lambrusco served in a traditional scodella

(Left) The basement of a restaurant, with prosciutto and other traditional cured meats hanging from the walls. (Right) Panaché, a refreshing mixture of beer and gassosa (Italian lemon soda)

Preziosi di Parma: A selection of Parma’s finest cured meats, featuring culatello con cotenna, Prosciutto di Parma, coppa, salame Felino, and strolghino, served on a traditional wooden platter

Cappelletti al Ragù di Strolghino

Vecchia di cavallo, a traditional, slow-cooked horse meat stew

Erbazzone, a traditional rustic, double-crust savory pie 

Sbrisolona con Zabaione: A crumbly, traditional
almond cake served with eggnog cream

“Mi chiamo Antonio e ho un sogno”: teatro e memoria al Ponte Real Ferdinando sul Garigliano

Feast of Blessed Karl of Austria at St. John the Evangelist Church in Union Hill, Minnesota

Among the Treasures of Mercanteinfiera

A poignant painting of a mother and child by
Aleardo Villa (1865-1906), a native of Ravello

Previous: The Less Pleasant Side of Italy
 
Much of my time in Parma was spent at the 45th Fall Mercanteinfiera, an international fair of antiques, modern design, and collectibles. Imagine eight enormous exhibition halls, some resembling airplane hangars, filled with dealers from every corner of Italy and beyond, offering an astonishing array of objects spanning centuries of history.

Sifting through the countless treasures, I encountered many fascinating and beautiful things. Among the most exciting discoveries for me were works by the great Neapolitan artist Vincenzo Gemito. Yet as remarkable as the objects themselves were, I found the conversations with their owners even more rewarding. Many were eager to discuss the history, provenance, and peculiar circumstances surrounding their wares.

While inquiring about a drawing of Gabriele D’Annunzio, one merchant asked where I was from. When I replied Brooklyn (I always say Brooklyn before New York or America), he seemed genuinely astonished. Apparently, he held a rather low opinion of Americans’ knowledge of European history and could scarcely believe my interest in the subject. I wasn’t quite sure whether to feel offended or proud.

Conversations with several other dealers also opened doors to objects not publicly displayed. Among the more curious discoveries were supposedly “scandalous” photographs of Yukio Mishima and D’Annunzio, brought out for my private inspection. Why these particular images were kept hidden away remains a mystery, especially considering the abundance of erotic art openly exhibited throughout the fair.

Despite the many things I would have liked to purchase, I exercised an unusual degree of restraint and came away with just two personal acquisitions, a carved mano fica amulet and an old monocle. Not a bad haul, considering I was there for work and the temptations were considerable.

Next: The Many Pleasures of Parma

~ By Giovanni di Napoli, October 13th, Feasts of Beato Gerardo, Santa Chelidonia di Subiaco, and St. Edward the Confessor

A dramatic coastal scene by Giuseppe Casciaro (1863-1941),
A native of Ortelle, in the province of Lecce, Apulia

A striking drawing and a bronze bust by Vincenzo Gemito (1852-1929),
a native of Naples and one of Southern Italy's most celebrated sculptors

Two expressive bronze sculptures by Gemito, capturing
the vitality and character of everyday life in Naples

View of the Gulf of Naples with Mount Vesuvius, tempera on
paper by unidentified Neapolitan painter, 18th-19th century

Nocturne in the Gulf of Naples with Mount Vesuvius in Eruption,
oil on canvas by unidentified Neapolitan painter, early 19th century

Two richly adorned busts of San Gennaro

Three works of religious art depicting Santa Maria Maddalena
(left and right) and San Francesco di Paola (center)

 A reliquary of Santa Agnese (left) and an assortment of
elaborately decorated reliquaries and devotional objects (right)

An assortment of ornate reliquaries containing relics of various saints

An assortment of historic chivalric and military decorations, including insignia of the Sacred Military Constantinian Order of Saint George, distinguished by its red cross and the Chi-Rho monogram of Christ

A medal awarded to soldiers who fought in the 1849 Sicilian Campaign under King Ferdinando II of the Two Sicilies (left), alongside two magnificent decorations of the Royal Order of San Gennaro (center and right), one of the most prestigious chivalric orders of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies

An ornate decoration of the Royal Order of San Gennaro, featuring the patron saint of Naples in episcopal vestments, surrounded by a jeweled cross and the order’s Latin motto, In Sanguine Foedus (“A Bond in Blood”)

A replica of the Prussian Order Pour le Mérite, featuring a blue enamel cross, royal crown, and the French inscription Pour le Mérite (“For Merit”), one of Prussia’s most prestigious military decorations

Three magnificent examples of European military headgear, featuring elaborately decorated helmets with gilded fittings, ornate crests, and distinctive plumes, reflecting the pageantry and martial traditions of the 19th century

An assortment of antique flintlock and percussion pistols, featuring wooden stocks, engraved metal fittings, and the distinctive craftsmanship of European gunsmiths of the 18th and 19th centuries

Three portraits of Gabriele D’Annunzio (1863–1938), the celebrated poet, novelist, and soldier, represented in two sculpted busts and a framed drawing

A colorful assortment of vintage tinplate wind-up motorcycle toys

A vintage Moto Guzzi Galletto, the distinctive Italian motor scooter produced between 1950 and 1966, combining the practicality of a scooter with the engineering of a motorcycle

Two striking crowned skulls, one silver-toned and the other gilded, evoking the memento mori tradition and the transience of earthly power, wealth, and glory

Two macabre examples of memento mori art: a pair of elaborately dressed
skeletal figures (left) and a haunting sculpture of a skull-faced
Franciscan friar (right), reminders of the inevitability of death
and the fleeting nature of earthly existence

A reclining female figure, possibly Cleopatra, depicted in the final moments
of life, with an overturned drinking vessel and a scepter beside her,
suggesting a tragic death by poison

An elegant assortment of decorative antiques

An eclectic assortment of antiques, including an ornate belt from a traditional Sicilian folk costume depicting San Giorgio slaying the dragon (left), two elaborately dressed marionettes in medieval armor (center), and a whimsical ceramic caricature of Totò, the beloved Neapolitan actor and comedian, holding a bowl inscribed Doppio Brodo (right)

Two elegant examples of decorative art featuring female figures: an Art
Nouveau-style absinthe dispenser supported by a silver-toned maiden
(left) and a gilded sculptural lamp depicting a nude woman
holding an illuminated globe aloft (right)

An intriguing assortment of figurative art, including a bronze sculpture of a kneeling nude woman (left), a vintage photograph of a reclining female nude (center), and a sculptural composition depicting two embracing women (right), celebrating the beauty and sensuality of the female form