To my surprise, Sarandrea began producing its Absinthium in 1915, at precisely the moment France was outlawing absinthe after decades of moral panic. Switzerland had already banned it in 1910, and Italy would eventually follow in 1931. And yes, learning that Italy’s own prohibition arrived under the House of Savoy only gave me one more historical grievance to add to the list. For most of the twentieth century, the Green Fairy vanished from much of Europe, returning only after the longstanding prohibitions were lifted in 1998, allowing traditional distillers to revive authentic nineteenth-century recipes.
I look forward to opening this bottle as it was meant to be enjoyed: slowly and ritually during the Green Hour, when absinthe once flowed through the cafés of Paris and artists, poets, and dreamers gathered to debate ideas, cultivate friendships, and seek inspiration. It is remarkable that a spirit so closely associated with Belle Époque France should find such an intriguing chapter of its story in a small Italian village devoted for centuries to the study of herbs. That alone makes this bottle something more than a drink. It is a piece of history, and a thoughtful reminder that the best gifts are those that reflect not only our tastes but also our curiosities.
~ By Giovanni di Napoli, August 16th, Feasts of San Rocco di Montpellier and San Gioacchino
