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| The Massacre of the Innocents by Pacecco de Rosa (Francesco de Rosa) |
By Giovanni di Napoli
While doing research for an upcoming article about Vincenzo Gemito I discovered that the Philadelphia Museum of Art has in their collection a bronze portrait bust of Baron Oscar de Mesnil by the master sculptor. Excited at the prospect of viewing another one of the Neapolitan's masterpieces in person I packed my bags and headed two hours southwest to the "city of brotherly love."
Deciding to make a long weekend out of it I stayed a few days and took in Philadelphia's many fascinating sites and attractions, including the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall and a multitude of historical monuments. I especially enjoyed the National Portrait Gallery, which houses about 185 paintings of America's "People of Independence." I even visited Benjamin Franklin's resting place, although I didn't toss a penny on his grave (as is customary) for good luck. Somehow I think the man of science who said, "a penny saved is a penny earned" would not approve of such a thriftless superstition. For lovers of American history this city is a must-see destination.
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| Monument to Mayor Frank Rizzo |
Being a lover of art I couldn't miss an opportunity to visit the Rodin Museum, which boasts the largest collection of statuary by the great sculptor outside of France. Already familiar with his work, thanks in part to the impressive collections at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and Brooklyn Museum of Art, I couldn't wait to pay homage at this magnificent temple dedicated to his genius. Unluckily, the famed gardens were under renovation, but this did little to dampen my experience. Among the 124 pieces on display were some of Rodin's greatest works, most notably the inspiring Call to Arms and the chthonic Gates of Hell. I was naturally drawn to The Sirens, a small, exquisite piece showing Parthenope and her sisters luring sailors to their doom off the coast of Campania. After visiting this museum it's not hard to imagine why—along with Francesco Messina and Vincenzo Gemito—Auguste Rodin is one of my all-time favorite sculptors.
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| The Sirens by Auguste Rodin |
Of course I had to visit the city's Little Italy as well and make the obligatory trip to Geno's and Pat's famous cheesesteak restaurants. Unfortunately, due to my Lenten dietary restrictions I could not partake in the popular "Philadelphia tradition" and decide for myself who really makes the best Philly cheesesteaks. I will have to add this this to my long list of reasons to return.
Sadly, the so-called "Italian Market" (South 9th Street Market) is not very Italian anymore. However, the area around the beautiful Saint Paul's Catholic Church, located on Hutchinson Street, appeared to be a rock-solid Italian-American neighborhood with plenty of restaurants and cafes to frequent. I felt right at home.
The next day, after having breakfast in Philadelphia's famous Reading Market, I made my way to the museum. The Philadelphia Museum of Art is one of the largest museum's in the U.S. and definitely needs more than one day to properly take it all in. This might explain why back in 1999 when I first visited this wonderful institution to see the outstanding Goya: Another Look exhibit I missed Gemito's statue.
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| Portrait of Baron Oscar de Mesnil by Vincenzo Gemito |
The statue of Baron Oscar de Mesnil was a lot larger than I expected. It stands 41 1/8" by 37" (104.5 x 94 cm) and completely dominates the room. The portrait depicts the wealthy Belgian patron who financed Gemito's bronze foundry for lost-wax casting on his return to Naples from Paris. It was executed in 1885 and is said to have been completed in just twelve hours. It perfectly captures the imposing physical characteristics of the sitter and clearly demonstrates the artist's ability to breath life and energy into his art. After seeing Gemito's masterpiece it's not hard to understand why some consider him to be "one of the greatest portraitists of the age, rivaled only by Auguste Rodin." (1)
In addition to being a brilliant sculptor, Gemito was also an accomplished draftsman, a fact becoming more readily acknowledged. The museum's collection contains a pair of graphite and crayon drawings of Laura Bertolini and The Bertolini Son on beige wove paper, but regrettably they were not on display.
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| (L-R) The Saltimbanco and Boy with Toy Soldiers by Antonio Mancini |
Sharing the gallery with Gemito's impressive work were three delightful paintings by his longtime friend and verismo painter, Antonio Mancini. At the age of twelve the Roman born painter studied at the Istituto di belle Arti in Naples, where he befriended Gemito. Mancini's Saltimbanco and Boy with Toy Soldiers depict the Neapolitan scugnizzo, Luigi Gianchetti. Until now I was only familiar with Mancini's work through books and the Internet—so this was a special treat. [For more on Gemito and Mancini I highly recommend A Chisel and a Brush: Vincenzo Gemito 1852-1929, Antonio Mancini 1852-1930 from the Gilgore Collection (2000).]
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| Madonna and Child by Jusepe de Ribera |
Afterword, I made my way through the various galleries, taking in the museum’s vast and enviable collection of Western art. Among my favorites were a beautiful Madonna and Child by the Spanish tenebrist Jusepe de Ribera, and a vivid interpretation of The Massacre of the Innocents by Pacecco de Rosa (Francesco de Rosa). A portrait of Emma Hart (Lady Hamilton) as Miranda by George Romney also caught my eye. Married to Sir William Hamilton, the British ambassador to Naples, she became a close personal friend to Queen Maria Carolina and a favorite at the Neapolitan court.
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| Emma Hart by George Romney |
However, aside from Gemito's statue, viewing Luca Giordano's Saint Sebastian Cured by Saint Irene (c.1665) was the highlight of my visit. There is something about baroque painting that speaks to me; I have a special reverence for the Neapolitan school, particularly the oeuvre of Bernardo Cavallino, Francesco Solimena and Luca Giordano. A popular subject in Naples after the plague of 1665, Saint Sebastian is often invoked for protection against afflictions. The figures in the foreground were painted over an older composition by Giordano, which can still be seen in the center of the canvas.
My trip to Philadelphia was educational and quite enjoyable; it won't soon be forgotten.
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| Saint Sebastian Cured by Saint Irene by Luca Giordano |
(1) Quoted from A Chisel and a Brush: Vincenzo Gemito 1852-1929, Antonio Mancini 1852-1930 from the Gilgore Collection, 2000, p. 23.
All photos by Il Regno
