October 31, 2025

The Toll of the Corbies (A Halloween Tale)

The Italian brigand's wife (c.1825-26),
by Léon Cogniet (1794-1880)
It was neither night nor morning when I set out—one of those gray, unholy hours when the world still seems half-dreamt. A mist hung low over the fields, and the air smelled of damp stone and smoke. As I walked the familiar path toward the old road, I noticed them: two corbies, black as ink, perched upon a leaning crossbeam of the ruined fence.

They watched me with the solemn patience of undertakers. When I turned away, their wings rustled—a dry whisper like ashes in the wind. They followed at a distance, gliding from tree to tree. Even when they vanished from sight, their mournful kawing echoed through the fog.

When I reached the gate, they were waiting. One cocked its head, the other spread its wings as if in benediction. Then, in a voice like the grinding of bones—slow, hoary, unfeeling—one said to the other, “Pay he shall, for failing to pay the toll.”

I do not remember falling asleep. I only remember falling.

When I opened my eyes, I was somewhere else. The sky was the bruised violet of late autumn, and the air was thick with smoke and pine. Around me, a few men huddled near the embers of an extinguished fire—gaunt, unshaven, eyes hollow with hunger. Brigands. My band.

At my side sat Doña Martina, her embroidered shawl drawn close, her eyes distant. Once the daughter of a slain local barone, a Bourbon loyalist descended from an old Spanish house, she had been my lover. Now, in the faint afterglow, she looked like something remembered rather than real.

No one spoke. We ate a little stale bread and passed a flagon of new wine. In the distance, a wolf howled—a long, mournful cry that seemed to answer something primeval inside me.

I tried to recall how we came to this place. The mountains were familiar—Lucanian, perhaps, Monte Vulture—but the years were wrong. Some old blood memory stirred in me, reaching back untold generations. There was no sound of automobiles, no hum or din—only, somewhere beneath the fog, a single rifle crack.

We waited for dawn to grant us passage, but the full moon betrayed us.

They came through the fog like wraiths, rifles glinting, shouting in the tongue of the new Italy. The invaders. We fought with what little we had—pistols, knives, and desperation. Martina fired once, twice, and then fell. The world rang like a struck bell, its knell resounding through me. A blow to the skull—the butt of a rifle—and everything went black.

I awoke gasping, tangled in my sheets, the room cold and still. My head throbbed where the rifle had struck me in the dream. I rose, half-expecting to see the pale glow of embers still smoldering.

Outside, the first light of dawn seeped through the open shutters.

Then I heard them.

Kaw.
Kaw.


Two corbies perched on the railing, watching me.

One turned to the other and whispered, almost mercifully, “The toll is paid.”

And they took wing into the mist.

Prone to dark, disturbing dreams, I found this one—a smorfia delight—lingering still, rich in omens. I cannot shake the feeling that those birds were not mere watchers, but collectors, psychopomps: each cry a tally of my debts, each dream a payment made in full—perhaps for what I failed to do for my beautiful Martina.

~ By Giovanni di Napoli, October 30th, Feast of Sant'Angelo d'Acri

All Souls' Day at Our Lady of Sorrows Church in Jersey City, New Jersey

October 30, 2025

Remembering Joseph-Louis Guérin

Portrait of the "little Zouave," Joseph-Louis Guérin, circa 1860

“Blood is necessary to appease the anger of God; I will give mine” *

In memory of Joseph-Louis Guérin (b. 5 April, 1838 — d. 30 October 1860), Papal Zouave who died defending the Papacy from the Piedmontese at the Battle of Castelfidardo in le Marche, we pray for the happy repose of his soul.

Eternal rest grant unto him, O Lord and let perpetual light shine upon him. May his soul, and the souls of all the faithful departed, through the mercy of God, rest in peace. Amen.

* Quoted from Papal Zouave History


Also see:

The Papal Zouave Saint? The Story of Joseph-Louis Guérin

Feast of All Saints at Our Lady of Sorrows Church in Jersey City, New Jersey

October 29, 2025

Notes from a Roman Pilgrimage (Part 3)

Reading Sebastian Morello's Unto the Ages of Ages on the journey,
I picked up a copy of Giandandrea de Antonellis' Carlismo per Napolitani
Re Nasone 

See Part 1, Part 2

Before leaving for Rome, I asked my friend Livia—Roman, radiant, and blunt—what the Eternal City was famous for. “Nothing,” she said. “We have everything, so nothing is special.” Then, reconsidering, she added: “Ah sì—the nasoni!

She explained that these small cast-iron fountains from the late nineteenth century, scattered throughout the city, are called nasoni because their curved spouts resemble the famous Roman nose. To illustrate, she turned in profile and displayed her own gorgeous, aquiline honker, a living monument to the city’s character that could have been sculpted by Bernini himself. I was instantly enthralled.

From that moment on, I made it my mission to drink from every nasone I passed. Writing her about my journey, Livia teasingly crowned me Re Nasone—King Big Nose—after King Ferdinand I of the Two Sicilies. I accepted the title with pride and hydration. Sadly, I couldn’t find a miniature fountain to bring home, but she promised to gift me one crafted by her sculptor friend.

Tired of cheap magnets and keychains, I brought back beautiful stationery, postcards from some of the churches we visited, and, of course, rosary beads blessed by the Pope. Real souvenirs, like real pilgrimages, are not merely purchased—they’re bestowed.

(Above & below) Nasoni
(L) Covered in graffiti, I spotted a portrait of Totò. (R) I also
found a flyer for the Madonna di Gulfi near my hotel
(L) Keystone with bleeding pelican. (R) Interesting door knocker
Roman Nights

Down the block from our hotel was a square that served as a farmer’s market by day and a gathering place for Roman youth by night. The transformation was seamless: fruits and vegetables replaced by music and laughter, baskets by wine glasses, and the smell of flowers and herbs giving way to perfume and cigarette smoke.

They ate, drank, and flirted—not like the overexposed youth of New York City, but with a graceful sensuality that still respected the mystery of the flesh. Some had tattoos and piercings, yes, but nothing like the excessive mutilation we see back home. The men were clean-cut and confident; the women were fashionable, modest, and exuded an effortless sexiness. They knew that allure depends not on exposure, but suggestion.

Watching them, I thought of how Rome remains eternally young. Each generation reinvents beauty, but always within the grammar of civilization. Decorum and desire—two sides of the same coin, worn smooth by centuries of handling.
(Above & below) La Madonnelle di Roma.
(R) Fountain with Papal coat-of-arms
Epilogue: Homeward Meditations

As the plane climbed above the clouds, I felt the strange melancholy that follows every pilgrimage: the sense that you are leaving a part of yourself behind, even as you bring something home.

I thought of Rome’s many Madonnelle, Marian street shrines adorning corners and walls; of the trickling nasoni whispering in side streets; of the churches where we prayed; of the laughter of my friends at dinner; of the Holy Doors swinging open to eternity.

Rome, like faith, is never finished—it only waits to be rediscovered.

And so I closed my notebook, then my eyes, and dreamt of the city that forever turns indulgence into devotion, and devotion into joy.

~ By Giovanni di Napoli, October 28th, Feast of the Holy Apostles Simon and Jude
Saint Peter's Basilica at night
Chiesa Santa Maria in Traspontina
High altar in the Chiesa Santa Maria in Traspontina
Our Lady of Mt. Carmel in the Chiesa Santa Maria in Traspontina
Chapel of Santa Barbara and the ceiling in the Chiesa Santa Maria in Traspontina
Chiesa Sant’Agnese in Agone
Chiesa Sant’Agnese in Agone high altar and San Sebastian chapel
Reliquary and chapel of St. Agnes in the Chiesa Sant’Agnese in Agone
Chapel of Sant'Eustachio in the Chiesa Sant’Agnese in Agone
Chiesa di San Salvatore in Lauro and high altar
San Pio chapel at the Chiesa di San Salvatore in Lauro
St. Charbel shrine at the Chiesa di San Salvatore in Lauro
San Giuda Taddeo chapel in the Chiesa di San Salvatore in Lauro
Parrocchia S. Maria del Rosario, high altar and Our Lady of the Rosary
High altar and St. Lucy chapel in the Chiesa Santa Lucia del Gonfalone

Notes from a Roman Pilgrimage (Part 2)

The Frecciarossa (Red Arrow), high-speed train
Milan: Business and Restraint

See Part 1, Part 3

More business than pleasure, my first trip to Milan did not move me as Rome always does. Still, it wasn’t the grey, joyless city its reputation suggests. The people were courteous, many from Torino and elsewhere—Italians in Milanese exile. With an hour to kill before catching the Frecciarossa, we browsed a record and book shop near Milano Centrale. I bought nothing, but the scent of vinyl and paper was its own souvenir.

Lunch was excellent—better than the “Italian” fare most New Yorkers accept without protest—but it followed a German meal, which perhaps made it seem transcendent by contrast. No disrespect to my Teutonic friends, I like German food, but wurst and spätzle lack the divine spark of salumi or a perfectly al dente macaroni. As it happened, the first restaurant we visited in Rome was Cantina Tirolese, known for its German and Austrian fare and frequented often by Pope Benedict XVI—an irony that wasn’t lost on me.

Before that first evening meal, we paid a visit to the Grand Magistry of the Sacred Military Constantinian Order of St. George, tucked discreetly into the heart of Rome. I was part of the small delegation entrusted with presenting an antique priestly vestment to His Royal Highness Prince Carlo di Borbone, Duke of Castro. In relatively good condition, the chasuble, mitre, stole, and burse were richly embroidered with the Constantinian cross and coat of arms—a tangible relic of the Order’s enduring devotion.

The Prince received us and the gift warmly. As we admired the workmanship, espresso was served, as it always is in Italy when something meaningful is shared. Conversation turned to business and the Order’s charitable works. Then, with the graciousness of an old-world host, His Royal Highness offered us a private tour of the Grand Magistry’s facilities—rooms lined with portraits, insignia, and centuries-old documents.

It was a moment both intimate and solemn, the kind of encounter that reminds one that history is not confined to books or relics; it continues in the gestures of the living.

Details of Milan's Stazione Centrale
Tagliatelle with Porcini Mushrooms

Pope Benedict's table number 6 at Cantina Tirolese
(L) Portrait and plaque commemorating the Pope. (R) Franziskaner beer
The Alpine Plate with mixed game cold cuts
Smoked goose breast
Smoked pork shank
Würstel Platte
Spiced and grilled pork ribs
Tiroler Plate with smoked pork neck, würstel, cevapcici, leberkäse, and potatoes
Decorative fairy creature and portrait of Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria
Mounted trophy skulls

The Roman Table

Once we settled into Roman rhythm, there was no going back to the heavy fare of the north—German or Milanese. From that moment forward, each meal became a revelation. Amatriciana, alla gricia, carbonara, cacio e pepe—the so-called “Four Gospels” of Roman pasta. We easily averaged five cafés a day, beginning with cornetto or zeppola and a quick espresso or cappuccino at the counter.

One afternoon, we discovered what may have been the most perfect lunch in all of Rome—a porchetta, provolone, and cicoria sandwich at Panino di Vino, a friendly and welcoming deli along the Via dei Gracchi. Simple, hearty, and utterly Roman, it embodied everything the city does best: rustic ingredients elevated by care, tradition, and pride.

The highlight, though, was our farewell luncheon at Trattoria da Augusto in Trastevere, a popular district of crooked streets and gold light. We sat by an open window, locals chatting all around, the purr of scooters outside. Lasagna di Domenica, coniglio alla cacciatora, puntarelle, patate al forno, and a carafe of red wine—the simplest dishes rendered transcendent by care. Dessert was torta della nonna Leda, a custard tart dusted with pine nuts.

After lunch, we took a passeggiata through the neighborhood, had a digestivo at a nearby bar, and took a stroll across Ponte Sisto, that Renaissance bridge built between 1473 and 1479 under Pope Sixtus IV. I thought, not for the first time, that Rome feeds both body and soul. Continue reading

Porchetta, provolone, and chicoria sandwich
Prosciutto on the ham stand
Spaghetti carbonara
Cacio e pepe
Panna cotta
Lasagna di Domenica
Coniglio alla cacciatora
Patate al forno
Puntarelle
(Above & below) Torte della nonna Leda
Ponte Sisto