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Bacchus & Vesuvius, Fresco from the lararium
in the House of the Centenary at Pompeii |
Reading Niccolò Graffio's "A Passion for Paestum" reminded me of all the great historical sites and artwork we saw on our recent journey to Southern Italy. My friend’s appetite for archaeology could not help but be wetted in a land as rich in antiquities as Campania. With its abundance of churches and museums, we were not disappointed. Everywhere we turned we marveled at the history and the beauty of the land.
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(L-R) An artisan at work and a traditional Torresi cameo
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Southern Italy, of course, is not all ruins, monuments and museums. The traditional folk arts are alive and well. Witnessing firsthand the time-honored cameo and coral handwork in Torre del Greco and ceramic making in Vietri sul Mare was a treat and just some of the interesting excursions we took on our trip. We also had the opportunity to discover how some of our favorite artisan foods were made. In Southern Italy gastronomy is an art form.
On our way to Paestum we stopped off at Tenuta Vannulo, an organic water buffalo farm renowned for its high quality mozzarella. We took a tour of their facilities, a high-tech operation where robots milk the farm's 300 adult bufale at the animals' own volition. There is even a small farming museum on the premises, housing tools and equipment from various periods of the farm's history.
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| (L-R) Buffalo grazing and men making mozzarella |
Our guide explained the difference between mozzarella di bufala and fior di latte (flower of milk) and the rules governing the industry. Apparently, what we eat in the States is technically not mozzarella but fior di latte; it's made exactly the same way but with cow's milk. Mozzarella can only be made from buffalo milk and it should never, ever be frozen! Ideally, it should not even be refrigerated. The "cheese" should be bathing in its own latte (milk) and has a shelf life of about three days. Sometimes they are smoked to enhance their flavor. Interestingly, locals don't consider mozzarella (or ricotta) cheese but simply milk products.
In addition to mozzarella, Tenuta Vannulo make ricotta, pudding, yogurt and gelato from their prized milk. The tour ended with samples of their exquisite products.
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| (L-R) Limoncello demonstration and served in chilled glasses |
In Minori, an ancient seaside town along the Amalfi Coast, we visited the beautiful Basilica of Santa Trofimena, where the remains of the Amalfitan's protectress are kept. However, right next to the church is Gambardella's, a small limoncello distillery. Warmly welcomed, we were given a delightful presentation on how this delicious digestivo was made then treated to a tasting of the many different flavors. The traditional lemon is still my favorite, but I enjoyed the melon and fennel varieties a lot.
Afterward, feeling exceptionally good—thanks in part to the limoncello—we further explored Minori, settling at a quaint pasticceria where I had the most amazing sfogliatelle and caffè.
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| Vesuvius looming over Cantina del Vesuvio |
Surprisingly, the most memorable meal I had on this trip was not at a ristorante, cafè, or trattoria, but on a vineyard. Wanting to try some of the famous Lacryma Christi (Christ's Tears) wine we visited Cantina del Vesuvio, a picturesque winery perfectly situated on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius. Off in the distance lay the glistening Bay of Naples and the charming Isle of Capri. One would be hard-pressed to find a more scenic place to dine.
First we enjoyed a leisurely stroll through the plantation, tasting the sweet red and white grapes as we went along. Our guide explained the importance of the black, mineral rich volcanic soil for cultivation and gave us an entertaining history of the vineyard. The story about delivering the wine at night during the 1950's to avoid working in the sun and paying taxes was quite humorous.
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The Archangel Michael smiting Lucifer, 16th century painting by Giovanni Angelo d'Amato da Maiori, Duomo di Ravello
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Then we were told how the wine got its peculiar name. Legend has it that when the Archangel Michael cast down Lucifer from the heavens the Prince of Darkness plunged into Vesuvius causing a terrible eruption. Christ wept when he saw the devastation, but his tears made the scorched soil fertile, causing the vines to grow.
Alternate versions of the myth say that a piece of Paradise fell with Lucifer and landed around the volcano. Thus, Campania is Heaven on Earth.
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| Spaghetti al pomodoro at Cantina del Vesuvio |
To our delight the Russo family, owners of the estate, are firm believers in pairing wine with food and they generously served large portions of local fare with their fine beverages. We had focaccia and bocconcini with white wine and soppressata, scamorza and crostini with their rosé. And just when you thought it couldn't get any better, they served spaghetti al pomodoro with their red and vintage Maestro. Everything was perfectly cooked and made fresh with local produce.
Like any good meal it was capped-off with desert, a slice of pastiera and a shot of their smooth and delicious Vesuvius Grappa.
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(L-R) Making ristras in Sorrento and the Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista at night, Vietri Sul Mare
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Back home, catching-up with family and friends I was asked what my favorite part of the trip was? I have many fond memories. Visiting the Duomo in Ravello and viewing the famed Farnese collection at the Museo Archeologico in Naples certainly stood out. However, it's impossible to talk about Southern Italy without mentioning the food and the people. One night in Vietri, after dinner (pizza diavola) during an evening stroll (passeggiata) with some new friends, we passed by the Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista. We heard the most beautiful choral music coming from within. Peeking through the open door we saw the church choir practicing. Not wanting to disturb them we listened for a bit outside in the cool night air. For a moment, lost in the music and serene setting, I felt completely at peace. Of all the simple pleasures I experienced on the journey this is undoubtedly my greatest memory.
The South's rich, vibrant cultural heritage is only part of the experience; meeting the locals, socializing during cena (evening meal) or talking sports and politics over a caffè is truly what I love the most.
