Arthur Avenue Walking and Tasting Tour With Renée Restivo

Renée Restivo

Photos by New York Scugnizzo

By Giovanni di Napoli

When I heard there was going to be a walking and tasting tour on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx I signed up immediately. I was eager to return to this Southern Italian oasis, and upon learning that our guide was going to be Renée Restivo, cooking instructor and founder of Soul of Sicily*, I knew I couldn’t miss this opportunity. Renée has an amazing knowledge of Sicilian food and culture and a passion for Sicily that few can rival. She was recently featured in the April 2013 issue of National Geographic Traveler with a heartwarming article about returning to her ancestral homeland and reuniting with family.

Arthur Avenue styles itself "The Real Little Italy of New York" and, if demographics are the criteria, they may have a point. While both neighborhoods are home to many fantastic old fashioned, family-owned artisan shops, restaurants and cafes, Arthur Avenue (unlike Manhattan's Little Italy) still has a sizable Southern Italian population. This fact alone makes it, in my opinion, more authentic than Manhattan, however, I'm not sure this necessitates the coveted appellation. Historically, Manhattan's Little Italy was never the largest Italian neighborhood, so numbers alone do not decide. If they did, perhaps parts of Staten Island, Brooklyn or Queens would be more deserving of the designation.

Storefront statue of the heroic Skanderbeg

I believe calling Arthur Avenue "Little Italy" isn’t necessary. Consider "The Hill" in St. Louis or the "North End" in Boston; what these places are to their respective cities, “Arthur Avenue” is to the Bronx and New York City. Besides, more than one traditional Italian neighborhood in a city can only be a good thing!

Arthur Avenue continues to have a strong Italian presence, with many thriving gourmet and specialty shops. The neighborhood also hosts an annual "Ferragosto" festival, albeit in September, and a Feast in honor of Saint Anthony at Our Lady of Mount Carmel Church every June. While popularity for these two festivals continues to grow, Manhattan's San Gennaro Feast is under siege from disgruntled newcomers who would like to see the celebration cut short, if not shutdown altogether. Unreasonable rents are also hurting the remaining shops.

Pianist at Arthur Avenue Retail Market

Our tour began at the Arthur Avenue Retail Market, a bustling indoor bazaar reminiscent of Philadelphia's famous Reading Market, except it's a lot smaller and much more Italian. Built in 1940 by Mayor Fiorello La Guardia to house the city's pushcart peddlers, the numerous vendors offer a wide selection of authentic Italian products, including baked goods, fresh produce and garden supplies. They also have tobacconists hand rolling cigars, a bar to have a drink while watching the Bronx Bombers, and a pianist to greet visitors at the front entrance. Fittingly, there is even a café named after the Piazza del Mercato, Naples' famous market square.

Great food and service at Joe's Deli

From the market, our intimate group leisurely made its way up and down busy Arthur Avenue, taking in the many sights and smells. Curious locals would offer helpful suggestions and give their unsolicited opinions on where to visit and who makes the best cheese, bread or salumi. Renée would take us into various shops, introduce us to the shopkeepers, give us a brief history of the business and describe what they offer. Renée's expertise in Sicilian wine was impressive and her lesson was most welcome. She introduced me to the celebrated sweet Malvasia wine from the Aeolian Islands off the coast of northern Sicily.

Pasta demonstration at Borgatti's

The merchants, of course, were happy to have us and we were warmly welcomed. They gave interesting demonstrations on how they make their specialty wares, answered all our questions, and, to our delight, let us try some samples. We had fresh creamy ricotta, crusty rustic breads still warm from the oven, thinly sliced prosciutto and spicy sopressata, fresh mozzarella, scamorza, and, interestingly, a piquant pecorino from Holland. I especially liked the spicy Crotonese cheese coated with hot pepper flakes.

Spicy cheese at Calabria Pork Store

Obviously, this left little room for lunch, so we stopped only for some lite fare and lively conversation, recapping all the wonderful things we discovered. For example, I was happy to learn some culinary traditions I thought lost are still alive. It’s been a long time since I saw capozelle (lamb’s head) available at the butcher’s. I was tempted to buy one, but alas, I don't think my more fussy friends would eat it. Maybe I'll surprise my guests at my next dinner party.

Coal oven and rustic bread at Terranova Bakery

Part of our tour included a brief stop at Our Lady of Mount Carmel and, as always, it was a pleasure to return to this beautiful church. We also passed by Vincent Ciccarone Playground. Opened in 1934, the park honors a local soldier born in the province of Chieti, Abruzzo, who died in WWI.

Our Lady of Mount Carmel Church

After we said our goodbyes to the tour group, my friends and I took advantage of the nice weather and explored the area some more. We relaxed for a bit beneath the gazebo at D'Auria-Murphy Triangle, a tranquil little park with a giant bust of Cristoforo Colombo. Named after John D'Auria and Henry J. Murphy, two young men from the neighborhood who lost their lives in WWI, the park was the perfect spot to temporarily escape the teeming thoroughfare.

Cosenza's outdoor oyster bar

Rested, we eventually moved on to Palombo's for dessert, a corner bakery with a casual atmosphere and good service. I enjoyed a delicious rum baba with my espresso while my friends savored some gelato. Afterward, we backtracked to some of the stores we visited earlier and finally did some shopping. I picked up a few "essentials" (i.e. friselle and some fresh cavatelli for Sunday dinner) and stocked up on the hard to find nduja. I also purchased a new Napoli scarf to show my team support. Humorously, like the locals who have their favorite spots to shop, we all had different thoughts on where to go to get the best products. Though I must admit, I was happy to return to the other stores.

Dry-curing nduja and sopressata at Calabria Pork Store

My friends and I are grateful to Renée for the wonderful tour and we look forward to her next one.

If you haven’t visited Arthur Avenue before, I highly recommend it. If you value traditional culture and good food, you won't be disappointed.

Statue of Columbus at D'Auria-Murphy Triangle

* Soul of Sicily is a culinary project based in Noto, a town in the Sicilian province of Siracusa.

Feast of the Madonna Incoronata

Madonna Incoronata, ora pro nobis

The last Saturday of April is the Feast of the Madonna Incoronata (Our Lady Crowned), an ancient tradition dating back to the beginning of the 11th Century A.D. In celebration, I'm posting Praise to the Queen of Heaven (Salvi Rigina), a traditional Marian prayer from Prayers and Devotional Songs of Sicily, edited and translated by Peppino Ruggeri.(1) The accompanying photo was taken at St Lucy's Church, National Shrine of Saint Gerard in Newark, New Jersey.

According to tradition, the Count of Ariano got lost while hunting in the forest near the River Cervaro in Foggia, Puglia. He took refuge in a nearby cottage when the woods turned unusually dark. At dawn the Count noticed a bright light shining through the trees. Drawn to the mysterious radiance, the Madonna appeared before him wearing a magnificent crown and levitating above a large oak tree. She revealed a statue of the Black Madonna perched in the branches. Awestricken, the Count promised to build a chapel to house her miraculous image.

Soon after, a shepherd named Strazzacappa, who was grazing his oxen close by, was also drawn to the light. Immediately recognizing the vision as the Blessed Mother, the humble herdsman set up a makeshift votive lamp with his caldarella in her honor beneath the tree. It is said that the oil was not consumed by the flame.

The Count fulfilled his vow and news of the miracle spread far and wide. The shrine quickly became a popular destination for devotees and those making the pilgrimage to the nearby Sanctuary of the Archangel Michael at Monte Sant'Angelo in the Gargano peninsula. Today, after several renovations, the Basilica Santuario Madre di Dio Incoronata is a major religious center visited by thousands annually. The Black Madonna and a branch from the oak are still on display. Ave Maria!

Praise to the Queen of Heaven

Hail to you Mary, Mother of Mercy
Life, sweetness, and spring of joy
In you we trust when in trouble or pain
To you we come when we are in tears
In affliction your comfort we obtain.

Hear our pleas, our sweet defender
Virgin Mother with all sorrow laden
To our God you prayers direct
Because our actions have no effect
The door of paradise open to all
When death for comes to call. Amen.

(1) Prayers and Devotional Songs of Sicily, edited and translated into English by Peppino Ruggeri, Legas 2009, p.139

Feast of the Madonna delle Armi

The interior of the Sanctuary

April 25th is the Feast of the Madonna delle Armi,* patroness of Cerchiara di Calabria, an ancient town in the province of Cosenza, in northeastern Calabria. The accompanying photos, courtesy of Olivia Cerrone, were taken at the Santuario Santa Maria dell Armi on the slopes of Mount Sellaro above Cerchiara. Built in the fifteenth century over the ruins of the Byzantine era monastery of S. Andrea, the sanctuary houses a sacred stone depicting the Blessed Mother and Child.

According to tradition, in 1450 a group of hunters from nearby Rossano were tracking a stag through the oak woods of Mount Sellaro. As they closed in on their prey the animal ascended the rocky ridge and squeezed into a small cave in the side of the mountain. The huntsmen followed the deer into the crevice, but to their surprise the animal was nowhere to be found; instead they discovered a set of wooden tablets depicting the Holy Evangelists. Excited about their discovery the hunters decided to take the icons back to Rossano. 

Stone with the Madonna and Child

The next day, however, the icons were missing. The men returned to the cave and were surprised to find the tablets exactly where they first discovered them. Three times the Rossanesi tried to bring the tablets back to town, but each time they would miraculously translate back to the cave. Finally, they decided to build a chapel outside the grotto to protect the icons and allow pilgrims to visit them.

During construction of the sanctuary an oval stone unsuited for the structure kept finding its way into the hands of a mason. Fed up with the troublesome stone the mason struck it with his mallet, splitting it perfectly in two. Incredibly, one side revealed the image of the Blessed Mother and Child, the other Saint John the Baptist. Sadly, the half with St. John is missing (some believe it was smuggled to Malta). In 1750 the Duke of Monteleone had an ornate silver reliquary made to properly display the sacred stone.

Over the centuries, many miracles have been attributed to the relic. The most famous taking place on April 25, 1846 when the desperate townspeople of Cerchiara invoked the Virgin Mary to help save their failing crops from the oppressive heat. Our Lady of the Cave immediately answered their prayers, saving the harvest and preventing a famine. Grateful for her divine grace, the locals celebrate the Blessed Mother's intervention to this day with a spectacular festival in her honor. 

In celebration, I’m posting a prayer to the Madonna dell armi in Italian. The prayer comes courtesy of the Santuario Madonna delle Armi.

Preghiera alla Madonna delle armi 

Vergine  purissima, fiore di consolazione, luce del meriggio adorna di tutte le gemme, ci insegni l’umiltà del  cuore. Davanti alla Tua immagine impressa su una pietra da mano non umana, per secoli venerata, fedeli devoti, ti invochiamo. Madre  del silenzio, ci parli di speranza. Tu, nell’ombra dell’Altissimo, hai detto il tuo eccomi e sei  redentrice insieme al Tuo Figlio Gesù, sole di giustizia giudizio per il mondo. Madre della Chiesa, in tua compagnia, rimaniamo nell’amore anche sotto la croce, quando tutto è perduto. Madre dei peccatori, ci richiami nel tuo abbraccio se andiamo per sentieri traversi smarriti dalle tenebre del dubbio e ci attendi, maestra della pazienza. Tu, Vergine dell’attesa, riempi i nostri giorni dell’opera dello Spirito Santo. Egli, con il Padre e il Figlio, ci genera come fratelli ci nutre di vita eterna ci sostiene nell’attesa del Signore quando verrà nella gloria per attirarci alla vita eterna. Amen

Notes: 

* Armi is said to be a corruption of the original Greek name for the grotto, Των αρμων or Tōn armōn.

Feast of San Giorgio Martire

San Giorgio Martire, ora pro nobis

April 23rd is the Feast of San Giorgio Martire (St. George the Martyr), patron saint of valor, chivalry and soldiers. One of the Fourteen Holy Helpers, San Giorgio is the principal protector of Reggio Calabria (RC), Modica (RG), Ragusa (RG), Prizzi (PA) and Barano d'Ischia (NA), among others. As a devotee and Knight of the Sacred Military Constantinian Order of St. George, the feast has an additional special significance to me. In celebration of the great warrior saint, I'm posting a Prayer to Saint George. The accompanying photo of the statue of San Giorgio, protector of Testaccio in Barano d'Ischia, was taken at Sacred Hearts of Jesus & Mary and Saint Stephen's Church in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn. Evviva San Giorgio!

Prayer to Saint George

Faithful servant of God and invincible martyr, Saint George; favored by God with the gift of faith, and inflamed with an ardent love of Christ, thou didst fight valiantly against the dragon of pride, falsehood, and deceit. Neither pain nor torture, sword nor death could part thee from the love of Christ. I fervently implore thee for the sake of this love to help me by thy intercession to overcome the temptations that surround me, and to bear bravely the trials that oppress me, so that I may patiently carry the cross which is placed upon me; and let neither distress nor difficulties separate me from the love of Our Lord Jesus Christ. Valiant champion of the Faith, assist me in the combat against evil, that I may win the crown promised to them that persevere unto the end. Amen

Feast of the Annunciation

The Annunciation by Renato Rossi, hand painted ceramic tiles on the facade of the Confraternity of Annunziata and Rosario (next door to the Chiesa San Giovanni) in Vietri sul Mare. Photos by New york Scugnizzo

The Annunciation recalls when the archangel Gabriel visited the Virgin Mary and announced she would conceive a Child by the Holy Spirit. Normally, the Feast is held on March 25th, however, because it took place during Holy Week this year the celebration was translated to April 8th, the day after the Feast of Divine Mercy, or Mercy Sunday. 

In celebration, I'm posting The Angelus, a devotional prayer honoring the Blessed Mother's role in the Incarnation, which should be repeated three times daily (morning, midday and evening).

The Angelus

Prayer at dawn:
The Angel of the Lord declared unto Mary:
And she conceived by the Holy Spirit

Hail Mary, full of grace, the Lord is with thee. Blessed art thou among women, and blessed is the fruit of thy womb, Jesus. Holy Mary, Mother of God, pray for us sinners, now and at the hour of our death. Amen.

Prayer at noon:
Behold the handmaid of the Lord:
Be it done unto me according to Thy Word.
Hail Mary…

Prayer at twilight:
And the Word was made flesh:
And dwelt among us.
Hail Mary…

Conclusion after each prayer time:
Pray for us, O Holy Mother of God,
That we may be made worthy of the promises of Christ.

Let us pray: Pour forth, we beseech Thee, O Lord, Thy grace into our hearts; that we, to whom the incarnation of Christ, Thy Son, was made known by the message of an angel, may by His Passion and Cross be brought to the glory of His Resurrection, through the same Christ Our Lord. Amen

Feast of San Vincenzo Ferreri

O' Munacone

April 5th is the Feast of San Vincenzo Ferreri, Dominican Friar and Miracle Worker. He is the patron saint of builders and co-patron of Naples. In celebration, we're posting a Prayer to Saint Vincent Ferrer. The accompanying photo of the winged saint, known as the "Apocalyptic Angel" for his fiery sermons, was taken at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Sculpted in 1750 by the great Giuseppe Sanmartino, the work in terracotta depicts San Vincenzo with flames above his head, symbolizing his divine gift of tongues. San Vincenzo Ferreri, ora pro nobis.

Prayer to St. Vincent Ferrer

O almighty and eternal God, you bountifully enriched St. Vincent Ferrer, your holy servant, with many graces and merits, and through his intercession have given a return to health to so many sick and infirm. Grant, we beg you, that by following his example and aided by his prayers, we may obtain the grace to despise the things of this world and to look to those of heaven, and thus be cleansed of our sinfulness. Grant that through his powerful aid we may be freed from all evils of body and soul. Amen.

Learning Sicilian at the Italian American Museum

Professor Cipolla Presents His New Book

(L-R) Professor Gaetano Cipolla and Dr. Joseph Scelsa

(Photos by New York Scugnizzo)

By Giovanni di Napoli

Recently, I had the privilege of attending Professor Gaetano Cipolla's book presentation at the Italian American Museum (155 Mulberry St.), where the esteemed author, educator and president of Arba Sicula spoke at length to a packed audience about his new book, Learn Sicilian/'Mparamu lu sicilianu: A Comprehensive, Interactive Course (Legas 2013). 

Professor Cipolla touched on many interesting facts about the Sicilian language, including how it developed earlier than the other regional languages of Italy (e.g. Tuscan), easily dispelling the popular misconception that Sicilian is a corruption of Italian. He gave us a brief history of the language, beginning with the Court of Holy Roman Emperor Federico II (Frederick II) and the Sicilian School of poetry up until the present.

I was aware of the social and political suppression of Sicilian, so I was shocked to learn that the Sicilian Assembly recently passed a law to teach the language in public schools. Unfortunately, I was not surprised that the law has not yet been implemented. Apparently, Sicilian is learned at home among family and friends, while "Italian" (i.e. Florentine) is taught in classrooms. I was also saddened to hear that Sicilians will speak first in Italian to strangers, even other Sicilians, because they do not want to appear uneducated.

This reminded me of an exchange I once had with a waitress at a Sicilian restaurant in Brooklyn. When I asked her how to properly enunciate something on the menu, she dismissed it as unworthy to pronounce. Instead of answering me, she said with a wave of her hand: "It's bad Italian." I wanted to correct her mistake, but not wishing to antagonize my food handler I dropped it. The scars of northern cultural hegemony run deep.

Despite these difficulties, Prof. Cipolla is confident the Sicilian language is not in danger of being lost. "The Sicilian people," quoting the critic Licio Zinna, "are becoming more jealous of their language than they are of their women." I'm not sure I share their optimism. 

One thing's for certain, this book is an important step in the right direction in helping to prevent that loss. At 336 pages long, it is a welcome addition to Prof. Cipolla's earlier work, The Sounds of Sicilian (Legas 2005) and Dr. J. Kirk Bonner's Introduction to Sicilian Grammar (Legas 2008). It comes with an easy to use interactive audio CD featuring The Sounds of Sicilian, which offers students an opportunity to practice their pronunciation.

According to Prof. Cipolla the volume was designed for the classroom and self-learners. It will provide the linguistic tools and cultural information needed to communicate. The assignments highlight the island's vast history and vibrant culture. Regional geography, cuisine and historical personages are used to help instruct students. Even the Greek myths about Persephone, Odysseus and Daedalus (among others set in Sicily) are featured. Poetry and tongue twisters are used as well.

Professor Gaetano Cipolla

Following the lecture, a question and answer period ensued. When asked if he was planning a second book for more advanced students, Prof. Cipolla smiled (alluding to the exhausting work he put into this volume) and said, "let's see how well this book does first." The title was available for purchase and I got my copy. I also picked up one for our friends at H.E.L.P., the Hellenic Education and Learning Program in Astoria (30-96 42nd St.). I think they will enjoy the learning exercises employing the Greek myths. I'm looking forward to begin my lessons.

It needs to be mentioned that Dr. Scelsa, founder and President of the Italian American Museum, has generously donated 20 copies of the textbook to schools in Palermo, matching Arba Sicula's donation.

The conversation continued late into the evening as Prof. Cipolla joined us for dinner at Grotta Azzurra (177 Mulberry St.), a Neapolitan restaurant in the heart of NYC's Little Italy. We had a lively and informative discussion about all things Sicilian. 

Many thanks to Prof. Cipolla for his hard work and commitment to our community. We wish him the best of luck and much success with his new book. Of course we cannot forget Dr. Scelsa and the Italian American Museum for hosting this wonderful event. The IAM continues to do a wonderful job organizing events that promote our Southern Italian culture and heritage. 

Prof. Cipolla will speak again on April 19th (7:00 pm) at Stony Brook University. The event will be held in the Center for Italian Studies in the Frank Melville Memorial Library, Room E4340. For more info contact: josephine.fusco@stonybrook.edu or visit their website. 

Additional reading:

• "Is Sicilian a Language or a Dialect?" by Gaetano Cipolla, Siciliana: Studies on the Sicilian Ethos, Legas, 2005, p. 99-120

• "A Dream Realized: A Modern Grammar of Sicilian Is Now Available," Sicilia Parra, Vol. XXIV, No. 2, Fall 2012, p. 1 and 3

Announcing 'The History of the Town of Craco'

Now Available at Amazon.com

• The History of the Town of Craco by Dino D'Angella (translated by the Craco Society)

Publisher: Create Space Independent Publishing Platform

Publication Date: April 1, 2013

Paperback: $29.95

Language: English

Pages: 176

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Pizza and Paulaner: Celebrating the Feast of San Francesco di Paola

"LITE FARE" — Soppressata, caciocavallo, olives, 'nduja, pizza and beer

(Photo by New York Scugnizzo)

By Giovanni di Napoli

In addition to the obligatory Lenten dietary restrictions (no meat on Fridays, etc.) members of my family usually give up one or two additional things for Lent. Customarily for me its macaroni (the food I love most in the world). This year I also gave up beer. Admittedly, I don't drink a lot of beer, but I do enjoy an occasional pint every now and again, especially when I have pizza. 

Last night some friends and I got together to celebrate the Feast of San Francesco di Paola. It was nothing extravagant, just a small gathering with some lite fare. I thought it would be apropos that my first beer since beginning my abstention was in honor of the holy man. However, it could not just be any beer, it had to be Paulaner bier from Munich. Reputedly, the monks who started making this most excellent brew in 1634 to support their charities were members of the Order of Minim founded by Saint Francis. Apparently, Paulaner is a corruption of Paola, the town in Calabria where Saint Francis was born.

Evviva San Francesco! 

Feast of San Francesco di Paola

San Francesco di Paola, ora pro nobis

April 2nd is the Feast Day of San Francesco di Paola (St. Francis of Paola), patron saint of sailors, the Region of Calabria and the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies. In celebration, I'm posting a Prayer to Saint Francis of Paola. The accompanying photo of the Saint was taken at Most Precious Blood Church (113 Baxter Street), the national shrine of San Gennaro, located in New York City's historic Little Italy. The pictures of the Santuario di San Francesco in Paola, Cosenza, comes courtesy of our good friend John Cordi. The pictures below of the Basilica di San Francesco di Napoli were taken during my 2007 visit to Naples. Completed in 1846, this monumental neoclassical church (inspired by the Pantheon in Rome) was built by HM King Ferdinand I of the Two Sicilies in homage to St. Francis of Paola for the recovery of Naples from Joachim Murat and the French. Evviva San Francesco di Paola!

Prayer to Saint Francis of Paola

Lord God, by whom the holy are exalted and Saint Francis was raised to share in the glory of the saints, let his prayer and example bring us the reward you have promised to the humble. Amen.

Santuario di San Francesco di Paola in Paola, Cosenza

Basilica di San Francesco di Paola in Napoli

Another look at the Basilica di San Francesco di Paola in Napoli

Photos by New York Scugnizzo

New Books

Some new and forthcoming titles that may be of interest to our readers. All are available at Amazon.com

• Learn Sicilian / Mparamu lu sicilianu (English and Italian Edition) by Gaetano Cipolla

Publisher: Legas

Publication Date: February 21, 2013

Paperback: $32.00

Language: English

Pages: 336

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• Medieval Amalfi and its Diaspora, 800-1250 by Patricia Skinner

Publisher: Oxford University Press

Publication Date: June 1, 2013

Hardback: $60.71

Language: English

Pages: 336

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• Trinàcria: A Tale of Bourbon Sicily by Anthony Di Renzo

Publisher: Guernica Editions

Publication Date: December 1, 2013

Paperback: $13.60

Language: English

Pages: 160

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Click here to see more books